If you’re looking for rainbows, look up to the sky. You’ll never find rainbows if you’re looking down.
-Charlie Chaplin
Sometimes I struggle with defining who I am. One day I’m overly happy and the next, not so much. I tend to let my emotions drive, while my mind is in the backseat.
We all know that in order to know happiness, we need to know sadness, otherwise how would we actually know that what we feel is joy? Life is balanced in all aspects, Life and death, Joy and sorrow, Love and hate, Hope and fear- just to name a few.
But the best thing we can do is to remain optimistic. No one knows what tomorrow holds. We may spend the journey thinking there’ll be sunshine at the end of the trip, only to be met with a thunderstorm at our destination.
Whenever I feel down, I listen to a song called “Swing little Girl” (performed by Charlie Chaplin as the opening score to a movie called “The Circus”) and I’m reminded that no matter the struggle, I have to keep going.
The song is a revelation for life. An anthem to live by…
The way I see the world, everything happens for a reason, and there’s no point in worrying about things you can’t change so when I need to look for rainbows, I look up
(to the sky because I’ll never find rainbows if I’m looking down).
Today my imagination brought me here because I needed some magic in my life. I can’t imagine anyone, young or old, not being mesmerized by it’s beauty and doubly so by a double rainbow. It’s a phenomenon to be reckoned with, as beauty created by nature is the most gorgeous of all.
Anyway, the pattern I’m sharing this week is kaleidoscopic, hence my prologue.
If you liked this free pattern, and want me to share more, would you like to donate so I can buy more yarn?
MATERIALS AND SUPPLIES
˖Yarn: Any weight from 1-4, base color and rainbow
˖Hook: (3mm) OR corresponding hook
˖Tape measure
˖Stitch Markers
˖Tapestry Needle
˖Slider Rings for adjustable straps (optional)
(Slider rings are the stuff on the bra that makes the straps longer/shorter)
STITCHES USED
Ch — Chain
SC — Single Crochet
DC — Double Crochet
TRC— Triple Crochet
Sl st –Slip Stitch
NOTES
You can use less than 7 colors for your rainbow (does not have to be ROYGBIV)
ch 3 at the beginning of the row counts as a DC. Ch1 at the beginning of the row DOES NOT count as a SC. If doing adjustable straps, scroll to ADJUSTABLE STRAPS, make the straps according to the underlined instructions and then start on your cups.
YARDAGE
I used scrap yarn for the rainbow and about 200yards for the rest
DIFFICULTY
Intermediate since there are no pictures accompanying, but adventurous beginners can try.
SUGGESTED YARN
Can use any yarn from weight 1-4. I used a fingering weight cotton
CUPS (make 2)
For the cup, it’s basically the same pattern for 7-11-/+ rows depending on how small or large of a cup you’re making. Because there are 8 colors to work with, I used 2 different row patterns but it’s totally up to you and your preference. I’m going to start with the 1st row then describe the 2nd row method. (We’ll call them M1 and M2), after which I will list the way I worked the rows.
Measure from your under bust to your nipple and create a ch of that length and add 3 more to it (this extra ch 3 acts as a DC)
R1: (Black) DC in the 4th chain from the hook (this acts as a DC). DC along the chain. DC 6 more times in that last chain placing a stitch maker in the 4th DC of the 7DC (here we will do increases). DC along the back of the chain. (you should have the same amount of DC on either side + 1DC with the marker at the tip of the top)
M1- chain 3(acts as 1st DC of the row) DC in every stitch, placing 5 DC in the stitch with the marker (for this method, the stitch count for the row increases by 4 DC).
M2- chain 1 SC in each DC, Placing 3 SC in the stitch with the marker (for this method, the stitch count for the row increases by 2 DC).
P.S DON’T FORGET TO PLACE THAT STITCH MARKER IN EVERY ROW!! I HAD TO REDO THE CUP A FEW TIMES BECAUSE I WAS BEING LAZY AND NOT COUNTING MY STITCHES OR PLACING MY MARKER.
I know some of you may ask why I'm using this method for writing the pattern, It's just easier for alterations in sizes and color usage. I wanted all 8 colors to be included and with smaller sizes it wouldn't be, so this way, you have the options.
Like I said before the pattern is basically R1 and some variations of M1 and M2. I will list how I worked the cups. (I am a 30D)
- R1: ch 18, 16DC 6more DC in the last ch, DC along the back side of the ch. (37DC)
- R2: (Black) M1(41DC)
- R3: (Purple) M1 (45DC)
- R4: (Dark Blue) M2(47SC)
- R5: (Light Blue) M2(49SC)
- R6: (Green) M1(53DC)
- R7: (Yellow) M1(57DC)
- R8: (Orange) M2(59SC)
- R9: (Red) M1(63DC)
- R10,11,12: (Black) M1(67,71,75DC)
- R13: (Black) M2(77SC) (So I had 13 rows, but 4 rows of SC which can be considered as 2DC rows)
BAND
For the band, we are going to work in groups of 17. 1 group of 17 is about 2.5 inches (in fingering weight). I did 6 groups which is 102 stitches.
If you are using a different weight, create a ch, in groups of 17, starting and ending at the points where your band will rest. Consider that the band will stretch as the ties are sort of corset-like.
R1: ch1, SC across the row. (I had 102SC)
R2: ch 3, DC in same stitch, 2DC in each of the next two stitches. *(skip 1 stitch, DC)5 times, skip 1 stitch. 2DC in each of the next 6 stitches*. Repeat ** til the end of the row. You should have 3 stitches at the end, do 2DC in each of those 3 stitches. (102 DC)
REPEAT rows 1 and 2 until you have reach your desired band length. work the colors to your preference. I changed colors at each row.
R3: Ch 3 (acts as a DC), DC in each stitch. (102DC)
R4: ch1 *3SC, 3HDC, 2DC, 1TRC, 2DC, 3HDC, 3SC*. Repeat ** til end of the row (102 stitches) (THIS ROW STRAIGHTENS OUT THE RIPPLE STITCH)
Turning the band sideways, HDC into each stitch, making 1 stitch in each SC and 2 stitches in each DC (I got 19 stitches). Turn and do a row of HDC with chain 1s in the place you would want your strings to be laced. eg. do 6HDC, ch 1, skip a stitch, 5HDC , ch 1, skip a stitch, 6HDC.
Fasten off and repeat the 2 rows of HDC on the other side. starting at the top of the band so you can end at the top after the row with the chains.
ATTACHING THE CUPS TO THE BAND
My cups were 13rows (9DC row and 4SC rows) which, if I were to do 2 stitches for each DC or chain 3, (1 stitch for each SC row)at the bottom of the cup, would mean I would have to do 44 stitches for each cup.
So find the points where you want to attach the cups and place stitch markers.
SC across the band to the stitch marker. Attach the cups by working SC into both the band and the cup. SC to the end of the row.
Ch 1, and HDC in each stitch a ch of the band height. SC along the bottom of the band placing a st marker in the 1st and last SC if you want to make strings to tie here- this would mean that tie will be at the top of the band. (alternatively, you can place the markers at the first and last HDC if you want the tie to be at the bottom of the top).
Turn and HDC in each stitch. SC around the cups until you are back at the side of the band.
STRAPS (skip this section and scroll if doing adjustable straps)
At the points where you have your stitch markers, chain your desired length for the ties and HDC along the chain, slip stitch in the same stitch where the ch started. Continue to slip st and make your strings in each stitch with a marker. Fasten off and weave in ends. (there should be 4 markers- 1 at each tip of the cup, 2 at the bands)
ADJUSTABLE STRAPS
Chain 5 and DC in the 4th chain from the hook, 2dc (3DC). ch 3, 2DC 2 more times then weave through the bra slider. Now slip stitch to the 1st row. Continue to work *chain 3, 2 DC* until you have reach your desired length and fasten off. Make 2 straps.
Slip stitch along the side of the band. slip st in the stitch with the marker, make a chain of you desired length-I did 120 and HDC into the chain, slip st in the same st with the starting chain. Continue to slip st at the bottom of the band, make your string at the stitch with the marker and slip stitch up the side of the band.
When you get to the top of the band, make a chain of 4, skip 2 stitches and slip st in the next stitch. chain 1 and turn. make 4SC in the chain 4. and continue to slip stitch (you can stop at the cup to attach the strap)
Insert the adjustable strap you made into the loop and “thread through slider”- do this to the other strap as well.
Slip stitch to the stitch before the stitch marker and attach the other end of the strap with the slip stitch. Repeat on the other cup.
When you get to the last 4 stitches at the top of the band, chain 4. Fasten off (leaving a tail long enough to make the the loop for the strap). Run the chain 4 and the tail through the loop of the strap and slip stitch to the last stitch of the band. Chain 1 and make 4 SC in the chain 4 space. Slip stitch to the stitch with the chain and continue to slip stitch til the end of the row.
And that’s it! Fasten off and weave in ends. I hope you enjoyed this project as much I enjoyed creating it!
I’m a big fan of creativity so I would love to see your amazing work and how the piece reflects your imaginative side! Share your work with me by tagging me on INSTAGRAM and use #NOTovertherainbowtop #aliceincrochetland #adventuresincrochetland #oceansoriginalscollection
Adventures In Crochetland 